How to Mod PS4 and Xbox Controllers

Before you start modding your own controller, I’d recommend just buying a modded controller to avoid the hassle. However, if you’re more interested in the DIY approach, keep reading.

PS4 controller modding in tutorial

You are looking for a tutorial about PS4 controller modding? Then you are at the right place! Maybe you feel the same as me: After almost a year with a black Dualshock 4 controller, the sticks of the pad are reaching their limits. The rubber is already heavily worn, partly even worn through and it seems as if a new controller is needed soon. Wrong thought! With a little effort, the sticks of the controller can be replaced. While we’re at it, why not also replace the case so that the Dualshock shines in a completely new guise? In this tutorial, I’ll show you step-by-step how to take the controller apart and reassemble it properly. I also give my impressions on purchased sticks and controller shells.

As an example, here is my formerly black DualShock 4 controller, which now features a white front shell and Xbox One sticks:

Note: Even though the controller doesn’t have a seal or anything like that, which would prove you tampered with it in a warranty case, you should be aware that Sony might still be able to track whether you opened the pad. So it’s possible that opened controllers may no longer be able to claim a warranty. I also don’t take any responsibility if you damage something during your conversion. But believe me, the whole procedure is really easy and you usually don’t notice that the controller has been modified.

Let’s start with the first step: Unscrewing the controller. The back shell is fixed to the front shell with 4 screws, which can be loosened with a Phillips screwdriver. I used a screwdriver that has the size PH 00. If you have a smaller screwdriver, i.e. size 000, you can also try it with this one, although I can’t promise that it will work. However, I strongly advise you not to poke and prod too much at the screws or you will break them and have to get new ones. I ordered the following screwdriver from ebay for just 2,49€: LINK. In principle, all PH 00 copies should be sufficient. Now carefully unscrew the screws. If you are too rough, you can quickly slip off a screw with the puller and scratch your controller shell. So be careful and nothing should happen. A small tip on the side: It is best to disconnect the PS4 from the power supply. During the course of the work, you will certainly come across the Playstation button, which otherwise turns on your PS4.

Stow the screws in a safe place so that none of them disappear. Now you’re already faced with the most difficult step: You have to separate the back shell from the rest. This is the only time you’ll actually have to use some force. Carefully, but with more and more force, try to separate the two shells from each other. Especially the very first time, this may take some time. Don’t rush things, though, because the back shell is still connected to the rest inside. A little creaking and cracking is normal and you should have freed the shells from each other after a few tries. Here’s a small tip: Press the two triggers L2 and R2 in when taking them apart. Otherwise, the triggers and the spring can come loose. This is not a problem, later I will explain how to put them back in. However, you can save yourself some work if you make sure that you don’t separate the triggers when you remove the shell.

Take out the cable that connects the controller’s light to the rest. As long as you are careful not to damage the contacts, this is a very simple step. Now you can put the back shell aside, because we won’t need it again until we put it back together in the last step.

Now it’s the battery’s turn to be removed. This is also easy. Put it just as safely to the side. By the way, you can replace this battery with a stronger one. The PS4 model has 1000 mAh. The battery of the DualShock 3, for example, offers 1800 mAh and is supposed to harmonize wonderfully with the DS4. Since I still use the standard battery myself, I cannot give you any direct information.

Now it’s the reset button’s turn. Just take it out and don’t lose it.

The touchpad is also still connected. Here you can use tweezers or fine pliers to carefully pull out the blue clip. You can do this without tools if you have small fingers, but I used tweezers.

Loosens the screw to be able to remove the interior. Now you can remove the upper part of the case - carefully, of course. If you want new sticks, you can now remove the main part of the controller.

Separate the plastic piece that holds the shoulder buttons, triggers, and rumble motors from the circuit board that holds the sticks. The sticks can be removed quite easily. You can put new PS4 sticks on it that you bought on the Internet. Even Xbox One sticks fit wonderfully, I got myself a pair here on ebay. Unfortunately, there are a lot of fakes circulating on the usual marketplaces. So it’s better to buy a little more expensive ones than to be blinded by the 6-items-for-2€-offers. On the other hand, you might want to look for modified versions: You can find colored sticks in many places, which will certainly make a fancy impression. As mentioned, I opted for normal Xbox One sticks. They are a bit higher than the PS4 originals, which might make the first few hours of play feel a bit “strange” - but you will get used to it. Don’t be surprised if the sticks move a bit hard after installation and it feels like there is sand under the stick. After 1-2 hours in use, this feeling fades and the sticks play smoothly, as you know they will. On my red controller that I took apart for this tutorial, I left the normal sticks on, so don’t be surprised.

Now the shell is interesting again. First, you’ll need to take out the touchpad. The share and options buttons need to come out as well.

Let’s move on to the rest of the buttons. Take off the rubber attachments and then take out the buttons. So that you don’t get angry about losing something, it’s best to stow them safely.

The upper shell can now be painted or replaced with a new one. Unfortunately, I can’t give you any recommendations on spray paint or anything like that. I ordered two white shells from the following store for around 4,30€ each: LINK. There are different colors available, moreover, not only the front shell is delivered, but also the matching back part. At this point, however, I have to say that I can only conditionally recommend this store. The upper part of the case did not fit absolutely exactly. Consequently, the share and options buttons as well as the touchpad sit a bit lower than on the original, since the dimensions of the shell were not matched down to the last detail. Nevertheless, I have been playing with exactly this shell for weeks, and I do not have any problems pressing the share button in the meantime. It’s a matter of getting used to it. So far, I haven’t found a store that offers qualitatively perfect shells at a reasonable price. There are various retailers that offer a front tray for around 25€, but that is too much for me personally. You will get the best results with the original dyed shell anyway.

The buttons come back in. Theoretically you can also paint the buttons as you like, there is no limit to your creativity. Then the rubber attachments are fastened again.

At this point I would check that the buttons are all in the right place and that the rubbers are stretched well over the buttons. If something is wrong, it’s easy to weed out now. If a mistake only becomes apparent after later steps, you’ll be unnecessarily annoyed.

The touchpad and share/options buttons are coming back in as well. I used the red shell again. The inner workings come back into the shell. Now the screwing is due again. If you are using a new shell, screwing may be a little harder. After all, the screw is also drilled into the plastic of the shell, which may cause a little resistance the first time.

The touchpad is connected again. Grab the blue auxiliary strip again - with pliers, tweezers or fingers - and insert it into the corresponding device.

Now it’s best to turn the controller over and check all the buttons for function. Do all buttons, sticks and triggers have the same feel as before? Then you can move on.

Put the battery back in its designated place and put the reset button back in.

Plugs in the battery - easy peasy.

Now the back shell comes into play again. Best lay it out as shown in the picture.

Now connect the light again. This is relatively easy to do by hand. Make sure that the contacts point to the right side. Theoretically, you can skip this step, but then the lamp won’t light up and you’ll probably save some battery power. The problem is that the mini-USB port is also connected to it. If you don’t connect the cable, you won’t be able to charge the controller - stupid.

Now put the shell back on and press it closed if everything fits. One last check to make sure everything works as it should and then you can screw it back on. The new controller is ready!

Problem: One or both triggers came off.

Since this also happened to me on the first try, I’ll describe again how to solve this problem. If you push the triggers in when you take the shells apart, it really shouldn’t happen, but it is possible for them to come off.

Make sure the rubber is properly seated before inserting. If it is not, the corresponding trigger will not be able to be pushed all the way through. Put the spring on the trigger. If R2 is off, put the spring on the right side. With L2 it goes on the left side

Fiddle the spring into the small notch on the controller. This is a bit tedious and may take a few tries.

Once it’s in and the whole thing looks like the picture, you can use a little force to snap the trigger into place, which solves the problem. I read a lot of scaremongering beforehand about being careful not to take the trigger out. In fact, this is a really small problem that can be solved very quickly. So if it happens to you - no big deal at all. Just follow the steps until you get to the second to last step. Before you put the back shell on, put the trigger back in.

PS4 controller modding may look like a lot of work, but you can be sure that even the first attempt will take half an hour at most. The more often you go through this procedure, the faster you’ll be able to swap out your desired parts. So whether you want to replace your sticks, paint or change the shell, change the battery, or simply clean dirt off individual parts - it’s worth it. I would be very grateful for any advice on recommendable stores and other tips. If you have problems with the procedure, I can try to help you. If you are especially proud of your modified controller, feel free to share pictures of the pad with us, we would be happy!